You descend at first light, six hundred metres in a few kilometres, and are on the floor before the light has properly arrived. Vehicles are limited to six hours down there, so the morning is timed tightly. What the crater has that nowhere else on this route does is black rhino: a few dozen animals, usually at a distance, and this is the most reliable place in Tanzania to see one. Add the highest lion density on the continent, the old bull elephants with the heaviest ivory in East Africa, and flamingo on Lake Magadi, all inside a closed bowl of about 260 square kilometres. For children it is the easiest game viewing of the trip: everything close, nothing hidden in long grass. Lunch is at the hippo pool, eaten inside the vehicle because the kites take sandwiches out of hands.
Then the long day begins, and we will not pretend otherwise. You come up the ascent road around midday and drive west across the Conservation Area, past Olduvai Gorge if there is time for the museum, and through Naabi Hill gate onto the Serengeti proper. From Naabi the last two hours to Seronera are a game drive whether or not anyone calls them one.
This is the one drive on the route that cannot honestly be kept short, and it is why the crater is done in a morning rather than a day. If the family would rather not, a light aircraft from the Manyara airstrip below Karatu reaches Seronera in about an hour; it costs the crater morning or adds a night, and we will tell you which is better for your dates.
Meals
Breakfast · Lunch · Dinner
Travel
600 m descent · crater floor until midday · rim to Seronera about 190 km · 4 hours with game driving
Highlight
Black rhino in the morning, Naabi Hill gate by late afternoon